Next on the list was Shae Vizla’s iPad, the “in a galaxy far, far away” version. As with everything else in this build, I began by drawing curves in Rhino, which I then connected into surfaces.
The datapad has a lot of blank spaces inside the raised “frame”; therefore, 3D printing the whole thing would not be the best idea, as it would be next to impossible to get rid of the 3D printed striation in these flat areas. Instead, I decided to 3D print the frame, and some of the main raised elements (like the button plate), and then do the rest with ABS sheeting.
I designed the frame with an undercut, or a lip, where ABS sheets cut to the correct shape could be inserted from the bottom. This would give me the smooth flat surface I need, and prevent the sandwiched look that would otherwise result from simply gluing the frame onto the ABS sheet.
Several hours later, I had the model sized to be 15cm long, and ready for slicing.
Once the pieces were printed, I cleaned up the raft material from the frame, applied Bondo spot putty, sanded and primed using Dupli-Color automotive primer.
Next, I began building the backing for the datapad by tracing the inside of the frame onto a sheet of .08 ABS, cutting out the detailing with a utility knife, and using a file and sandpaper to soften the edges.
I meticulously cut out the various rectangular “buttons” for the datapad from some scraps of .08ABS, and sacrificed two push on/off switches to make the two round buttons that are found in the middle right of the datapad.
I used some thinner ABS sheeting to create the innermost layer of the “screen” in the middle, as well as the base onto which all the buttons were glued.
I then gave it a coat of automotive primer to make all surfaces the same texture, which made the piece ready for molding.
Picking up several days later, I realized I made the thing way too big. So, gritting my teeth, I went back to Rhino, and modelled the entire thing, buttons and all.
I then 3D printed it, and used acetone vapour method to smooth everything out.
I was working on so many different things at the same time, that I missed taking photos of the next few steps. Nonetheless, I used Bondo spot putty to fix up any surface anomalies.
I sanded these spots down, and primed, which completed the master. Next, I coated the surface with Super Seal, and let sit for 30 minutes.
I then used some clear containers (roofing nail packaging, and one Dessert Whip jar, the contents of which I actually disposed of so that I could use the container! If my wife asks, we've run out!), and set up the master for molding.
NOTE: When molding hollow 3D printed parts, it’s important to fasten the masters down, or they WILL float up to the surface when silicone is poured!
I roughed up the contact surfaces with sand paper, and superglued the model to the bottom of the container. I then whipped up some Mold Star 15 silicone (1A: 1B ratio), and poured it in. I put everything on top of the dryer, turned it on, and let the shaking work any bubbles trapped inside to the surface.
Several hours later, I peeled the master out of the mold, and saw that it was good. There were some minor bubbles in the surface, but nothing that would require any major effort to clean up.
Next, I cold cast the datapad (on the right)...
The flashing trimmed, I sanded what needed to be sanded, applied the coat of Dupli-Color paint, and weathered it with steel wool.
Next, using an app called Pixelmator for Mac, I pulled the datapad image from one of the reference photos, sized it to fit the window on the datapad cast, and printed it on photo paper.
Next, I clearcoated the print to protect the ink...
…and glued it into the window. I then realized that the clearcoating may not be enough to protect the screen if it’s bumped or scratched during wear, so I used the plastic from a croissant container from Costco to make a little screen protector.
I glued this on, which completed the datapad.
Thanks for looking!
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